Day 17 - Schloss Neuschwanstein

We arrived into Munich ontime at 6:30am to dump our bags and get on the 6:51 train to Fussen - a 2 hr ride. We had the honor of sharing it with a bachelor party wrapping up from the night before. Probably not a good idea to ask a bunch of drunk guys if we are on the right train! They apparently felt obligated to see us to our destination, and one rather entertaining guy (and his beer) didn't leave our side. He learned to speak English from Beavis and Butthead! He explained to us the concept of the Bavarian tradition - Frühschoppen - drinking on Sunday from 10am-noon. Greg is seriously hoping he can get this idea to catch on back home! Oh, it is men only!

In Fussen we had to actually catch a bus ride to the next town, where King Ludwig II built his Castle Neuschwanstein. It was never completed because after 17 years, he was declared mentally ill, and the next day was found mysteriously floating in a lake.

The castle, and especially its surrounding countryside, mountains, and waterfall are beautiful! The romantic fairytale castle, only 100 years old - though real - came across to me as a replica. Compared to all the ancient places we had just experienced in Italy, the castle was mostly gradeur in a layer of paint. Ironically, the castle inspired Walt Disney's idea of his castle, but I wouldn't be surprised if Disneyland inspired King Ludwig, since the whole thing had that "staged" feel. (Backwards timeframe though.)

It's such a gorgeous day that we can't complain about another 2-hr train ride through the green sprawling countryside back to Munchen. Interesting tidbit here - next time you're in Germany, and your parents tell you not to play on the train tracks, you might want to heed their advice ... I just pee'd all over the tracks! "Flushing" just opens up the toilet to the ground below!

We couldn't spend the rest of our euro today because all the stores are closed on Sunday, even souvenir stores! We walked through town on our way to the bier garden in English Gardens. The whole town was out and about! We had a variety of German food and beer all day long.

We are staying near the Marienplatz at Pension am Jakobsplatz.

Day 16 - Necropolis of Rome

Today we spent most of our time touring cities underground - necropoleis - City of the Dead. Having permission to pass through the men in court jester suits (the Swiss Guard), we went 3 floors under St. Peter's basilica, on a special tour of the scavi (excavation). It wasn't until the 20th century that they actually started excavating under the basilica, and found bones that scientifically have the same similarities of a man from the 1st century AD who lived to be in his 60s, and had no feet bones. The Catholic church officially recognizes these bones to belong to St. Peter. We saw these very bones! We also went one floor up to see the tomb of Pope John Paul II, which was significant as he is about to become beatified.

Ironically, as we were exiting the basilica for 3rd time in one day, the line to get in (get through security, technically) stretched around the entire St. Peter's square!

Next we figured out Rome's bus system so we could go out the ancient road, the Via Appia, past Rome's walls to another City of Dead - the San Callisto Catacombs, where 500,000 bodies were once buried. The 12 miles of graves are empty now, except for the remnants of 2 sarcophagi on display.

Then we had out last gelato, got our packs, and settled down in a park-side bar in front of Rome's train station (termini), waiting for our train to Munich.

We had no idea what to expect from our 11 1/2 hr "night train" ride, but it started out well, with the very nice train porter giving us both a compartment to sit in, and one to sleep in! Each compartment converts into 4-6 bunk-style beds, and you are provided with a pillow, sheet and blanket.

As it turns out, "sleeping" on a night train can be an interesting experience! Our bunkmates were kind and quiet all night, but Greg did not get any sleep.

Day 15 - The Vatican

We left Italy today to go to the smallest country (and richest per capita) in the world, the Vatican! Needless to say, there is some pretty amazing stuff there! We didn't come close to seeing all of it; if you spend 15 seconds at each piece, it will take you 3 years to get through! We took another Presto tour. The highlights for me were the rare porphyry purple marble (only for emperors), Rafael's works especially his School of Athens, and, of course, the Sistine Chapel. We ended in the enormous St. Peter's Basilica. It is difficult to grasp it's immense size, and hard to believe that the letters surrounding the inside walls of the church are each 6 feet tall (and encased in real gold background). After the tour we climbed high up into the dome, and even at half its height the people below looked like ants!

Our day started with the Campo de Fiori - Rome's famous "flower" market. Fun to walk around and take pictures, but essentially another tourist trap.

Then we walked around some repeat sights - Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, and Spanish Steps. This time we climbed up the steps to the Pincio Gardens for its view over the Piazza de Popolo.

Dinner at nearby popular Pizzeria da Baffetto had horrible service but we shared a table with good company, and the tartufo dessert was heavenly!

Day 14 - Rome

Rome is every bit as amazing as I always dreamed it was. And an extra bonus is how easy it is to navigate - given the monumental attractions and open areas.

Our day started early with an Ancient Rome/ Colosseum (almost private) tour, again with Presto. I had high hopes since our Florence tour was so good, and our guide, John did not disappoint. I tell you, it seems like these Presto people live to transfer their immense, accurate knowledge to you in their short, 3-hr time frame! John made the ancient Forum, Julius Caesar, and famous others, come alive. We felt like we were transported back 2000 years in time!

Afterwards, we stopped for lunch near Circus Maximus at a sidewalk "Snack Bar", an overused name for their cafes here. Delicious! Except that eating outside means you are surrounded with smokers. When, I wonder, is someone going to inform these Europeans that smoking (and smoke!) kills?!

Next we walked around to see some great sights - the Mouth of Truth, the Trastevere area, an ancient pyramid, up the Gianicolo Hill to overlook all of Rome, but best of all was the view through a tiny keyhole of a massive wooden door. The keyhole perfectly frames the huge dome of St. Peter's (the door leads to the private Priory of the Knights of Malta). Quite difficult to get a picture of this unexpected view!

From the Castel Sant'Angelo's bridge, we watched the sun set over St. Peter's dome. We followed it with another tasty meal of fresh pasta. Then we walked back to the ancient Rome area to see it lit up at night.

Day 13 - Amalfi Coast to Rome

The Amalfi Coast has similarities to Cinque Terre except on a larger scale. It has crowded, curvy, narrow roads that cling to the cliffs between and into each of the towns.

We were off to a good start... donkey crossing the road, a truck going the wrong way, unwilling to merge, acting like we were the problem. But the classic BEST was the car driving in reverse with the flow of traffic!! We were flagged down (randomly) by carabinieri asking for identification documents. "Ok to go!"

Today the tension was more than evident. Quotes from driver: The Amalfi Coast, how to induce a heart attack...I think I'm going to break a tooth with the amount of teeth clenching I'm doing...Guy behind me - no hands on the wheel...Did I hit something, I think I did.

I don't think driver wanted to stop - anywhere along the coast, it is practically impossible to park anyway - but somehow I managed to get him out of the car in the little town of Ravello high on the hillside. It definitely wasn't in his plan to pay to enter the gardens of Villa Cimbrone, but they were beautiful and offered stunning panoramic views of the coast!

The Ravello store owner asked how we got there. We drove. "Aagh you're a good driver!!" After each person politely asked, "First time here?" I kept expecting Greg to answer, "And last!". Honestly, I think we will not return.

We finally arrived to Rome - both us and the car made it in one piece. Greg is quite relieved to be done with the car!

In Rome we went straight to our hotel - a B&B in a medieval tower right off the Piazza Navona. We get to stay here for the next 3 nights. It is a great location! We threw our stuff down, and went out to find the Spanish Steps and our "New Rome free tour". Greg enjoyed the tour and its information, but I didn't like how random our guide was. At least we saw the Trevi Fountain and Pantheon - both beautiful and amazing. I stared at the dome in the Pantheon in awe - amazed that the base is 23 ft thick concrete, and that the oculus (hole in the top) is a 27ft opening!

Fortunately our B&B is surrounded by lots if great places to eat, so we did not have to go far for our late dinner. We both enjoyed pizza at Navona Notte - finally out 1st dinner at a table outside!

Day 12 - The Island of Capri

Today started with a bunch of hurrying to wait. Hurry get ready, miss the bus, and wait. The next bus must've been on break, so wait some more. Hurry buy a ticket, and wait for the ferry. Hurry buy a boat ticket, and wait for the tour.

Finally it all proved worth it, as our tiny row boat crashed through the miny entrance into the Blue Grotto. For a short moment, we were the only ones inside the cave. Our guide started singing, which instead of being tacky, was actually quite beautiful - acoustically echoing throughout the cave. The water glows an unearthly azzure blue. The moment doesn't last long enough; we must exit to let more people in (busy times bring 3 hr waits). Leaving wasn't as easy as getting in, and he had to time it right. You have to lay down on the floor of the rowboat so you don't get knocked out.

Capri, made famous as the vacation getaway of Roman emperors, is now a world-class tourist trap. It wasn't necessarily relaxing (a lot of people in a small area), but is definitely very scenic! I didn't realize it was going to be a little maze of paths, and not an open space with clear signage. I didn't know where I was going, other than away from the crowds! It turns out we took my planned hike in reverse, which worked well because we were alone! After a scenic day, we took the ferry back to the mainland, and somehow timed it perfectly to arrive at the hotel just as a storm was hitting!

We couldn't bear the thought of walking another 30 minutes each way into town, in the storm, for dinner so we ate at the hotel's restaurant. It was a nice meal. We finally ordered both the primi and secondi (2 of the regular ~4 Italian courses), which was way too much food, and the waiter kept saying, "what's wrong don't you like it?"

Day 11 - Pompeii and Sorrento

The morning started calmly, enjoying a nice breakfast with our talkative host, Ennio. And then it crescendoed from there! We had ~3 1/2 hr drive to Pompeii. The 1st 3 hrs went smoothly on their autostrade, which you pay a pricey toll to exit. Cars straddle lanes, never claiming one for long. There are convenient "autogrill" rest stops spaced along the way. Then we approached Naples and the driving intensified. Very quickly it became chaos! Cars going every direction on a street, intertwined with scooters honking and squeezing through any teeny space. Organization and rules of the road went by the wayside. We went through 2 traffic signals, and they were simply off - which I guess is better than ignoring red lights. Greg appeared calm but admits to feeling the tension!

We took a brief reprieve at the ancient ruins of Pompeii, preserved in time by volcanic ash from the 79 A.D. eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. It is difficult to grasp the fact that this city is over 2000 years old because of how intact it is. You cannot rely on your feet to navigate the erratic cobblestone without watching every step. We took an hour long audio tour which seemed to give the same info as the private guides walking by, but the Rick Steves tour was nice because it doesn't follow the crowds. At one point we turned down a narrow street and ran into a wall of people trying to enter the tiny brothel with its pornographic frescoes still intact! Mt. Vesuvius loomed over us as a constant reminder and continuing threat.

We have been relying on Tina, our gps, to get us everywhere. Though she doesn't attempt to speak Italian, she has been doing well... until today. We watched the sign to Sorrento go left as we instead went right, through cobblestone alleys and tiny streets with crazy drivers and dirty, perhaps unsafe surroundings. This is not the area I meant to stay, please no!

After what seemed like an eternity of stressful driving on curvy ocean-cliff roads - yet only about 5 miles later - we emerged from the chaos and arrived at the Hotel Mediterraneo on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Need I ask...cold, stiff drink anyone?

Next we walked into Sorrento, famished for dinner. We had no problem finding Pizzeria Franco, rumored to be #1 in the area. Not bad, but not the best- I'm guessing they started the rumor. We walked some more, and Greg finally found his blood orange gelato. We returned to the hotel, exhausted.

Day 10 - Orvieto

Today was the highlight of or trip - the essence of Italy. We've been trying to see bits and pieces of everything, in case we can return some day, and choose our favorite. And Greg has chosen this as the place to return to!

I have taken millions of pictures. One I repeatedly take is laundry hanging out to dry. In the U.S. it looks tacky but here it is charming.

Speaking of laundry, when we arrived at today's B&B, they took our laundry. And when we returned from a day of sight seeing, it was all clean and folded! Aagh, now that is vacation!

The place we are staying is the Casa Selita. It is absolutely wonderful and beautiful - everything you'd imagine in a Tuscan summer home (though technically we are in Umbria)! It is located at the base of the "fortress" of Orvieto. This impregnable city was built on a high hill of volcanic rock.

For water, they had to dig a well to go down 100 feet to the water table below. St. Patricks is one such well, and we got to spiral down it today - basically the opposite of climbing a tower.

We also had a great tour of the underground, which was dug in Etruscan times over 3000 years ago. The city has 1200 caves, most of which are privately owned now. Instead of an attic, the homes in Orvieto have their private caves below (used like cellars).

Our lunch was one of our most pleasurable meals yet. In the square of one of Italy's finest Duomo's, we sat down at a table. It was a beautiful day to enjoy outside. The owner brought us his preferred selection of wines, meats and cheeses. One of the meats was a local specialty called porchetta - a savory pork. He finished off our meal with some chocolate biscotti, which Greg tried to pretend was awful so he wouldn't have to share with me! Mmmmmm, a great memory!

We made sure we had time in the afternoon to relax in the comfort of the yard, which we had all to ourselves. Ironically, as I was blogging about Etruscan caves, the owner brought us a souvenir piece of Etruscan pottery that he often finds on his large property!

Dinner at Trattoria de Moro was as good as any other - lasagna with honey, and lasagna with truffles and porchinis!

We are having a great time with the language. We are pretty pathetic, and our Italian understanding is figuring out their broken English, or pointing. Better yet is after a bottle of wine, how "fluent" Greg becomes!

Our way home from dinner was quite entertaining. Greg was the guide. When he missed the 2 big elevator doors down, he claimed he was taking me on a romantic stroll! Then we had to stumble through the olive tree grove in the dark, laughing.

Day 9 - Siena

We had a short drive today; Siena is barely an hour away from Florence on a beautiful Tuscan road. It is another walled city, on a hill, that doesn't allow cars. It has a casual, easy-to-enjoy feel to it. As you walk leisurely through the quaint alleys, you don't notice the strain of the hills. The black and white striped duomo stands tall above the city.

We started with the central piazza, Il Campo - where they hold the famed Palio (horse race). We found a perfect spot at Bar Paninoteca San Paolo, a pub with outdoor seating that overlooks the square. We relaxed, ate and people-watched, soaking in our new location.

A delicious Guiness later, we crossed the square to climb Italy's second highest bell tower. It is 505 steps to the top of the Torre del Mangia. It was hardly crowded and the narrow spiral staircase leading to the various platforms was quite enjoyable. The view from the top of Siena and its surrounding green country-side is unequalled!

More rest was in order, so we plopped down, like many others, on the inviting floor of the square. It was tilted at a comforting angle that, in the brilliant sunlight, was as relaxing as the beach!

Onwards to see the Duomo- enjoyed by most for its spectacular marble mosaic floor, but I liked it for its contrasting colors and the fact that its art decor is all intact.

We stopped at Pasticcerie Nannini to try their famous panforte - a rich, chewy concoction of nuts, honey and candied fruit. I liked it! Greg chose another, more subtle treat.

We had a quiet picnic sunset dinner on the hotel's balcony overlooking the city and Duomo. We are staying at Albergo Bernini. It is thankfully our last night of having a bathroom down the public hallway.

Day 8 - Florence Again

What a fascinating, great day! We started with a private city walking tour with Rafaella from Presto Tours. She spoke mostly perfect English but was very Italian. We spent 4 hours with her. She had endless knowledge of art, Florence and Italy, and changed the way I was seeing Florence. She helped us see ancient Florence, which, even though swallowed by modern Florence, is still there in every way! She explained the concept of Italy's "art wealth" which even includes things like the stones we were walking on. I was fascinated that the Medici built their own walkway through Florence (from the Palazzo Vecchio, across the Ponte Vecchio, to the Pitti Palace!) so they wouldn't have to walk with commoners; their wealth was mind-boggling!

For lunch we found tiny I Fratellini - serving wine and 30 types of stuffed sandwiches. We chose the right one (roasted pork with parsley sauce), which melted so quickly into our mouths that Greg was going for seconds! We ate in a window sill in the small alley.

Then we walked through the loggia del mercato nuovo - selling mostly leather goods and scarves. I rubbed the boar's snout which means I will return some day - apparently without Greg because he wouldn't touch it.

We crossed the river to the Oltrarno - the "other side" of Florence, and walked 20 minutes uphill, along the 6th and final wall of the city, to the Piazzale Michelangiolo. For sweeping views across Florence, this is a must-do for any visitor! Finally I could see the Duomo in its entirety!

Nearby is Florence's oldest church, San Miniato, where we listened to the monks sing their evening vespers in the dark, frigid cloisters of the church.

Dinner was around the corner from the hotel at Trattoria Nella, where we had gnocchi with gorgonzola sauce and fried cod with marinara sauce....mmmmm!